At this time of the year, ‘having fun’ comes way down on a list dominated by promises to spend less, eat healthily and generally give one’s halo a bit of a polish; blow-out bingeing is off the menu, rectitude is the order of the day... and Thailand beckons.

Despite its relatively fuss-free countenance (there be no gold braided dragon-related paraphernalia in this cheerful contemporary diner), Yum Yum Thai offers solace and succour to those in dire need of a life-affirming blast of healthy, uncomplicated but highly flavoursome food at budget-friendly prices, resulting in a winter antidote on (several) plates. The prescription for your chosen remedy is refreshingly simple to decipher: simply choose a main course from a classic Thai selection, the majority of which are priced at £9.95 (inclusive of rice or noodles), with dishes on the ‘specialities’ selection costing a couple of quid more. You can, if you wish, supplement your choice with a side order from a 15-strong cast list all fluctuating around the £5 mark (although, if we’re being saintly, main course portion size negates the necessity for such treatsome fripperies), and the restaurant’s mission statement is admirably straightforward too: organic and free-range produce pushed to the fore, MSG banned from the premises and the meat in most dishes effortlessly replaced with tofu to create a veggie version.

If a green curry is the benchmark by which all Thai restaurants should be judged, the YYT’s rendition of this familiar favourite can only be called exemplary: super-soft chicken, silky aubergine chunks and crisp shards of fresh vegetables bathing in a gently hot sauce offset by lively sweet basil. My meat-free friend was immediately attracted by the V-sign next to a moo pat king – a mushroom, black fungi, ginger and yellow bean sauce melange traditionally made with pork – and declared his choice to be “spectacular” (this from a man not given to over-emoting), and a platter of six veggie spring rolls proved their worth as crisp little shovels with which to mop our plates as our very fresh feast – for which we paid around £20 each, including a bottle of wine (organic, so therefore a healthy tonic and not evil alcohol at all) – to a close. Seasonal belt tightening: it’s a doddle, isn’t it? (Melissa Blease)

YUM TUM THAI 17 KINGSMEAD SQ, BATH, BA1 2AE, TEL: 01225 445253, WEB: WWW.YUMYUMTHAI.COM

VENUE VERDICT

FUSS-FREE FRESH FOOD IN A FRIENDLY, VIBRANT FLAVOUR EMPORIUM THAT FULLY LIVES UP TO ITS NAME.

Copyright Melissa Blease 2011