Rocinantes (pop-up night)

Home

Talk about reeling back the years – this pop-up night at the excellent 40a Alfred Place in Kingsdown, Bristol had ‘high school reunion’ written all over it. In the late 80s, about a decade before the infamous European café culture became a national goal, Bristolians had their own slice of it on Whiteladies Road. It was in Rocinantes (and later manifestation Quartier Vert) that chef Barny Haughton developed the philosophy of organic, seasonal and sustainable cookery that’s made him somewhat of an international guru on the subject and launched countless other chefs from his tutelage. Not that Rocinantes made much of their worthy ethos back then. Front of house manager Kate Hawkings once recalled that “in those days (organic food) conjured images of knitted brown rice and hand-woven tofu”, whereas Rocinantes was as relaxed and fun-filled as an eaterie could be, a rolling combination of bar, café and restaurant that offered the chance to hang out, meet people, nibble tapas and drink all day if you felt like it. It’s been gone a while now – the redoubtable Picture House is making good use of the site – but Barny, Kate and other Rocinante veterans decided that pop-up friendly Alfred Place made a three-day Rocinantes revival too good a chance to miss. So here we are – the Lovely She, The Duchess of Ashley Road and myself, jointly and severally wallowing in the fondest of memories as the place bustles about us. New arrivals swan up to the open kitchen to hail the chefs, with shrieks of recognition and embracement aplenty between staff and customers all night.

Ordering is easy – we’ll have it all, please, with margharitas to start and a bottle of Albarino. The cocktails are crisply chilly for December but the citric zing awakens the taste buds just in time for a platter of Spanish cheeses, sizzling crisp calamares rings, Serrano Ham, skewered Pinchos Morunos pork and shiny plump anchovies. And that’s just for starters. As ever each ingredient is a perfect example of its kind and, as ever, the hurly burly of Rocinantes distracts from full appreciation. And then there’s a tableful of eight tapas plates to follow, with spicy aubergine salad and calamares sevillana the fought-over stand-outs among the consistently delicious company. Again, thanks to the meeting and the greeting and the rambling conversations time unfolds around us effortlessly. There’s three dessert options so, once again, ‘bring it on’ – and an intense little chocolate parfait, dried apricots soused in brandy and three punchy cheeses with quince jelly all do the rounds of the table with smoky Spanish brandy to wash them down. Hours might have passed – who cares? – and our frankly gluttonous behaviour has cost us £45 a head but that’s money well spent on the food and drink, while the chance for a brief return to what the Independent once described as “the epitome of Bristol mellow” was priceless. (Tony Benjamin)

Venue verdict Rocinantes’ effortless quality and easy charm are proving to be a timeless wonderment.