FOOD&DRINK

• The original Picture House was an ambitious project combining a lively cocktail bar with a restaurant-style eating offer. It was a lot to ask of a single room, so last year’s opening of Picture House East across the road made good sense, but rather than simply moving the food operation they were also aiming a few rungs up the dining ladder. It was another ambitious move, especially as the new site holds the ghosts of the once-revered Rocinantes and Quartier Vert, but the assured professionalism (and friendliness) of our reception hinted that we might be in for a treat. Happily, we weren’t being misled, and as the meal unfolded it became clear that this was somewhere to be trusted for both self-indulgence and special occasions.

The starters selection said it all – five enticingly different confections eager to catch the eye. My choice – fluted tortellini of cavolo nero and ricotta sitting on richly buttered slices of trompette mushrooms and scattered with crisply golden shallot rings – was excellent, the pasta properly al dente and each ingredient singing its own praises. My companion was won over by sweet and firm poached quince slices that were merely the garnish to a duck cavalcade in which a light and mousse-like duck liver parfait just edged ahead of splendid moist rillettes and dusty smoked breast slices. An admirably wide list of by-the-glass wines had given us choices (she Malbec, me Vinho Verde) that were well-matched to the food.

The main courses lived up to the general air of promise. She cooed over crisp sea bass fillets, rich in flavour and perched on little brandade piles with tangy olive and apple salsa, deep-fried mussels and a sprinkle of powdered scallop. I savoured the crisp pungency of the beans and gamey confit duck in my Toulouse cassoulet, saving the perfectly crisp crackling of slow-cooked pork belly for a last treat as I wiped the plate. A dessert of melting Cox’s apple tarte tatin clinched the whole thing – properly gloopy yet firm to the fork, while her ice-cream selection never had time to melt.

It was clear why Picture House East had been bustlingly busy all evening – this was well-designed food executed with skill and served with care. Our meal came out at a tad over £60 (though they also offer a £10 special of main dish plus glass of wine) and that seemed extremely good value for such pleasurable eating.

PICTURE HOUSE EAST 85 WHITELADIES RD, BRISTOL, BS8 2NH, TEL: 0117 973 9302, WEB: WWW.THEPICTUREHOUSE.EU

VENUE VERDICT

A PLACE YOU CAN TRUST FOR GREAT FOOD AND COMFORTABLY COSSETING SERVICE.

Copyright Tony Benjamin 2011