FOOD&DRINK

Authentic Tokyo dining meets crisp contemporary decor in Clifton Village

When I think of things Japanese, something simultaneously ancient and modern comes to mind: centuries of calm zen and Confucius overlaid with a glitzy hi-tech jabber. There’s something of both about Noa Japanese, with its crisp decor and contemporary style nonetheless providing a natural context for proprietor Kelly Cui’s traditional clothes. Never having been to the Far East, I’ve brought Ivor E. Tinkler, a well-travelled jazzer who’s spent much time in Japan. It’s Wednesday and the place is busy enough but we get friendly and attentive service from the waiter from the off, settling us with an Asahi beer and menus.

Catching a light whiff of tempura as a golden heap is delivered to a nearby table makes my mind up instantly, and we combine seafood tempura with wakame salad and the inevitable edamame beans for a shared starter. It’s a nice balance – the soft wakame seaweed and greenery lightly dressed in sesame oil, the tempura (crisply hot around soft squid and prawns) and those nibbling beans sit well together. For mains we go our separate ways: I have grilled mackerel with ponzu daikon sauce. The gently cooked fish comes as moist fillets, with the citric/horseradish dressing a perfect complement to the strong flavour.

I’m enjoying it a lot, but Ivor’s gone into hyperdrive about his red miso spicy duck, a sliced breast that’s deeply pink at its core and, he opines, the best-cooked duck meat he’s ever eaten. “Such care!” he croons (and he’s not usually given to crooning). We have the usual accompaniments – sticky rice, miso soup and a tart pickle of red cabbage – and a small jug of warm, dry sake. It is, Ivor assures me, an authentic evocation of Tokyo dining. For desserts we agree to share again and Mr Tinkler’s face falls when he sees the ramekin of green tea creme brulee. It’s a sunken dish, dark green and surly looking. But he tastes it first and is instantly beaming again. “Amazing! Nothing like creme brulee, but delicious!” The pudding has a semolina-ish consistency, richly creamy with a scented flavour, and is, indeed delicious. I’m even more impressed, however, by the dora yaki fluffy disc of pancake filled with rich berry compote. It’s the dream of a perfect Pop-Tart, light sweet and easy to eat. (Tony Benjamin)

CONTACT

NOA JAPANESE 12 WATERLOO ST, CLIFTON VILLAGE, BRISTOL. FFI: 0117 973 2881, http://www.noajapanese.co.uk/

THE VERDICT The true taste of Japan, prepared and served with consummate care

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