No 5

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No 5

• Dear old Lady Bath has turned into a right floozy of late, selling parts of herself off to any old Flash Harry franchise with total disregard for the wellbeing of her existing clients. If she carries on like this, the Heritage City will turn into nothing more than one big, bland shopping centre cluttered with corporate branding and tacky, tasteless food... unless, that is, Bathonians take action and vow to reclaim their independents instead. Right now, if there’s one ‘hidden gem’ that really deserves to be sent to the top of the Best in Bath charts, it’s No 5: an utterly charming, gently convivial bistro affair offering an easygoing but distinctly upmarket nom-nom experience at prices that easily take Big Chain loss-leading ‘offers’ to task.

When Venue last reviewed No 5 almost two years ago, we sang the praises of the “nicely proportioned, welcoming dining room furnished with classic cafe society fixtures, all bathed in soft sunset hues courtesy of subtle lighting and tasteful paintwork” – thankfully, such a summary remains intact today. What has changed, however, is the grub. Since that last review, chef/proprietor Richard de Cesare has quietly morphed from A Good Cook to fully fledged Kitchen God, an endorsement based on the expertise and flair that’s marinated into every element of his truly spectacular tasting menu. Needless to say, ‘traditional’ a la carte options (and set menus) are, of course, available, but the tasting flurry is a truly winning dinner. From a soft, sweet, Avruga caviar-strewn king scallop bathing in Cornish crab bisque to a sumptuous crème brulee by way of super-carnivorous steak tartare topped with truffled egg; a slab of sea bass supported by Asian-themed accompaniments to an addictively soporific risotto, haddock and curry oil melange; a soft rump and moist cutlet of lamb served with minted couscous and a rich rosemary jus to a cheese course that left nothing to be desired, Richard presented Venue with heaven on six plates. With wine to match each course (most notably the fragrant rosé that came with the steak tartare and a remarkable red with the lamb), the total bill was £49.95pp – forgo the wine, and we’re talking £35 for the lot; forgo the independent option, and you’ll have few options to discuss at all: Bathonians, you have been warned. (Melissa Blease)

NO 5 5 ARGYLE ST, BATH, TEL: 01225 444499, WEB: www.no5restaurant.co.uk

VENUE VERDICT