FOOD&DRINK

The popular veggie restaurant stirs new blood and a daytime vibe into the Easton mix

New owner, new name, new paintjob… things are changing at Maitreya. One of the first things you notice, chalked up on the wall, is a daytime menu (including breakfasts) and a more obvious bar area by the door. The website describes the place as a ‘cosy East-side hang-out veggie restaurant and bar’, with new owner Barney McGrath aiming for a more accessible daytime vibe while keeping fine dining alive in the evenings. With past experience at St Werburghs Farm Cafe and alongside Mark Evans at Maitreya, he’s well prepared, and his impressive beard presides over a calm kitchen as we arrive to check out the evening offering.

The wine list remains an affordable, interesting selection of vegetarian/organic stuff and The Lovely She picks an amiable glass of Cotes de Gascognes while I get punchy Sicilian Nero d’Avola. The overnight bread is almost sweet and, dipped in oil and balsamic reduction, it’s a flavoursome start to things. The first spoonful of her celeriac and almond soup, however, quickly eclipses such nibbles. It’s deeply flavoured and creamy yet lightly constructed, with a citric swirl of herby chermoula adding perfect contrast. My soft parsnip and cashew nut cakes strike a more subtle note that’s almost overwhelmed by marinated fennel and salsa verde, though I enjoy them separately.

There’s nothing subtle about the brazen trompette and chestnut mushroom ragout that follows – an intoxicating blast of (im)pure earthiness from the autumn forest floor. Topped in an optional melt of sheep’s cheese and boasting a triangle of garlic and tarragon polenta, it’s a mighty portion that has me pacing myself with sips of tempranillo. She’s got a more decorous tarte tatin, a light puff pastry disc colourfully topped with smoked cheddar cheese, roast squash and caramelised onion and balanced rakishly on a stack of braised vegetables like a hat at Ascot. Happily we’d forgotten to order side dishes – there was more than enough on the plate – and only professional pride drove us to share a dessert of warm chocolate, plum and almond pudding with ice-cream and butterscotch sauce, an unusual, moistly crunchy paradox to finish us off.

It’s all impeccably cooked and, if it lacks the elaborate artistry of Mark Evans’ style, the new Maitreya Social has a proper appreciation of ingredients and an adroit use of flavouring that should please all palates – and at £30 including wine, the wallet was pretty happy, too. (Tony Benjamin)

CONTACT

MAITREYA SOCIAL 89 ST MARKS RD, EASTON, BRISTOL. FFI: 0117 951 0100, WWW.CAFEMAITREYA.CO.UK

THE VERDICT Still flying the flag for interesting and enjoyable meatless cookery

Copyright Tony Benjamin 2011