This bright, noisy Chinese restaurant goes big on portions, flavour and uncharted territory

Sad though it was to see the Bath branch of Italian-themed diner Say Pasta utter its last strands, a new Chinese venture on the same site offered cause for much celebration. Bath isn’t strong on decent Chinese food; only Widcombe’s Hon Fusion really cuts the Asian mustard, and sometimes, you need to be able to take a Far Eastern holiday closer to the city centre.

Hoorah, then, for Hoi Faan – a bright oriental ensemble offering menus that juggle a cast-list of at least 260 characters (and that’s before we even begin to explore side-dishes), from traditional classics (crispy/sizzling dishes, tides of sweet and sour, chilli and black/yellow bean sauces, etc) all the way through to scrumptious ‘Clay Pot’ combos (think Chinese casseroles), a neat selection of south-east Asian fusion dishes and more ‘daring’ options that appear to have inspired recent I’m a Celebrity... menus: vinegar whelk spinach, chicken’s feet, tripe, fish head and pig lungs add a stamp of authenticity. Meanwhile, masses of vegetarian and seafood options and – I have it on very good authority – superb dim sum complete a summary of the line-up on offer. Phew! So, where does one begin an expedition through and across such unexplored territories?

First, try and bagsie the big table in the corner by the window, the one with a spinning lazy susan at the centre (because yes, one has to share). Next, find a combination of ingredients that you’re most likely to like, and trust your senses to guide you - judging from my recent experience, such a method won’t let you down. Don’t rely on the staff for recommendations: they’ll tell you that it’s all delicious (and why wouldn’t they?) - and anyway, the fans that extract steam from the kitchen or pump air conditioning into the restaurant are so noisy that you can barely hear yourself think, let alone take advice!

Of our feast for four (which came in at around £26pp, with a couple of glasses of wine/beer each and side dishes), crispy pork and tofu clay pot, fragrant chilli chicken, Japanese tofu with enoki mushroom and wasabi king prawns were all, everybody agreed, fresh, flavoursome and characterful enough to prove the restaurant’s worth as an uplifting experience to be returned to time and again. In summary, Hoi Faan is jolly good fun. (Melissa Blease)

CONTACT

HOI FAAN 41-42 ST JAMES’ PARADE, BATH. FFI: 01225 318212, WWW.HOIFAAN.COM

THE VERDICT Huge portions of audaciously authentic Far Eastern delights. If background clatter could be subdued, we’d give ‘em eight stars!

Copyright Melissa Blease 2011