Gascoyne Place

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Gascoyne Place

For those of us who live within the Eating Out West borders, it’s easy to think we know all there is to know about Bath: it’s all about history, innit? The fact that many Bathonians refer to the city’s newest restaurants as new until they’ve been established for at least a decade (at which point they become known as ‘Bath institutions’) attests to this reputation. As a result, laurel-resting becomes so comfortable that we rarely reconsider our opinions on places that we think we know all about – and it’s at this point that, were I to be a fan of clichés, a careworn idiom based around ‘cutting off’ and ‘spiting our faces’ could come into play. So, in an attempt to keep your pretty little noses intact, I’m about to take you on a journey back in time in order to bring you bang up-to-date.

Aeons ago, a gentleman-only drinking establishment dominated Bath’s Sawclose, complete with raised window frames to stop women from even peeping inside. But even if ’er indoors had been able to see past the old curmudgeons of dubious intent lurking within, they probably wouldn’t have realised that hubbie was propping up the bar in one of Bath’s oldest buildings, home to original street-level paving stones that run the length of the basement and a section of the city wall that forms the foundation for the backbone of the structure itself. Around five years ago, that historical backdrop was refurbished to immaculate contemporary standards that cleverly combine ancient and modern in perfect harmony. There’s a lovely sparkly bar at street level (also home to one of the most fascinating, extensive wine lists in the city), a cosy snug to the left, a bright and breezy balcony to the right, two rooms that are surely amongst the most elegant in Bath upstairs and an evocative subterranean merrymaking area down below – and it all combines to become Gascoyne Place, a tasteful, easy-going bar/restaurant hybrid that caters to an equally tasteful, easy-going crowd. And even if you think you know GP well (lord knows, I do), you may not know that the kitchen now flourishes under the guidance of Ross Shaw, a competent, thoughtful young superchef who has quietly built up a cult following since he first took up residence a few short months ago.

And so it came to pass that I dragged myself away from the GP bar and over to a table by the window in the largely candlelit snug that fully lives up to its name: a roaring fire to my right, a view across to the Theatre Royal to my left, and Beloved sitting opposite me as we embarked on a fact-finding mission to find out just how much of a sure thing Ross really is.

I began with a starter that’s already gained GP signature dish status: silky goats’ cheese mousse topped with densely-flavoured beetroot jelly, served in a chubby Kilner jar and teamed with a mound of earthy walnut pesto and shards of crostini to add texture and bite. If you consider each personality-laden, individual element as a single entity, it’d be easy to imagine that a major food fight would ensue if they were forced to share a plate. But I urge you to be brave for, in this instance, the combination represents an utterly heavenly partnership: fresh and grassy, sweet and earthy... and highly recommended. Across the table, another sublime starter of smooth pressed guinea fowl and moist ham hock served with pickled vegetables and artichoke crisps proved to be another impressive, multi-faceted success; while my choice was all about subtlety, his majored on pushing strong flavours to the max – and neither disappointed on any level. Mains too struck a similar incarnation of foodie gold. His tender pan-fried loin of venison served with smooth fondant potato, creamy celeriac puree and hearty red cabbage was complemented by a perfectly-balanced redcurrant and juniper sweet/sour sauce. Meanwhile, my crispy-skinned, pan-fried pheasant breast – not, in my experience, easy game for a suitable partner – came teamed with a soporific parmesan and sage polenta, Savoy cabbage, smoky bacon lardons and dusky, pungent chestnut puree. Both dishes represented the very best British winter produce cooked and presented to their very best advantage – when the GP kitchen makes locally sourced, seasonal claims, they really mean it. But, of course, we didn’t embark on a chilly journey home without plundering the sweet treats: an apple and plum compote served with fennel crumble and divine toffee ice-cream and a rich, sexy black cherry and chocolate brûlée accompanied by a very sweet, very short cardamom shortbread – a tantalising devil/angel combo if ever there was one.

The cost of a taste of Shaw similar to our feast comes in at around £65, with wine; for innovation, style and quality of this standard, that’s a bargain in old or new money. So: you think you know all about Gascoyne Place? You do now. (Melissa Blease)

GASCOYNE PLACE 1 SAWCLOSE, BATH, BA1 1EY, TEL: 01225 445854, WEB: http://www.gascoyneplace.co.uk/

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