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Aió

Aio

Ineffably charming, contemporary Sardinian bistro that ticks all the right staycation boxes

Last time we visited for review purposes, Aió was a newcomer to the Bath scene: a sparkling beacon of independent joy to offset the franchise invasion that was just beginning to attempt to dictate the pace and tone of eating out in the Heritage City. Two years on, and the invasion continues at a pace. Aió, however, continues to thrive, proving that an authentically warm welcome, surroundings that aren’t dictated by a Head Office diktat and properly fresh food are the armaments that can help win the war against heavily branded, loss-leading assembly-line fodder.

The Aió experience thrums with vibrancy from the off. Pavement tables on the busy thoroughfare to the front lead into a softly lit dining room decorated with cute, seafood-themed Amalfi Coast knick-knackery, and there’s another cheerful dining room and a dinky, private alfresco patio outback. Had we struck it lucky with the weather, it would have been nice to eat under the stars, for food here (lots and lots of fresh fish, plenty of meaty chargrilled skewers, fascinating fregola) lends itself perfectly to a staycation experience. Having said that, there’s a nicely paced, lively ambience indoors, too, courtesy of Aió head honchos Mauro Matta and Salvo Cuomo - a team with over 15 years’ combined experience in bringing la dolce vita to Bath.

We started our Roman holiday with the ‘Antipasto Mare’ sharing platter (£8.95pp): a well-considered piscatorial selection including dusky, spicy grilled sardines, smooth marinated salmon and perfectly crisp fritto misto, served with shards of flatbread and dinky slivers of roasted vegetables in Kilner jars - a grand adventure indeed. To follow, two fish dishes straight off the specials board: crispy-skinned mackerel fillet dotted hither and thither with mussels, olives and capers (£12.95) and a huge, whole sea bream (£16.95), liberally stuffed with spears of rosemary and plump garlic jewels before being subjected to the grill. We didn’t need the side of chips (my idea - there’s no hint of the dreaded ‘upsell’ at this establishment), but they turned what was already an oceanic feast into a banquet of sheer, fresh indulgence. Nor did we need to finish with two thoroughly indulgent, treatsome desserts (sorry, the note-taking faculties went awry at this stage), but when in Rome, etc... or rather, when in Bath: the city’s original invaders wouldn’t be disappointed by their legacy. (Melissa Blease)

Aió 7 Edgar Buildings, George St, Bath. Ffi: 01225 443900,
http://www.aiorestaurant.co.uk/

VENUE VERDICT

mart but informal, fresh, cheerful and value for money