Jackson @ The Richmond

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The Richmond Arms is one of those hidden gem pubs that, though most definitely not positioned on any sort of beaten track other than the sidewalk familiar to residents of Richmond Road (in itself one of the loveliest thoroughfares within Lansdown’s leafy environs) seems to bring a ‘knowing look’ to the face of any Bath resident you mention it to. And in one way, it’s easy to see why those in the know would want to keep exact location details to themselves: when a pub is this cosy, charming and – bliss! – refreshingly unselfconscious about its indisputable merits, who wants to spoil things by attracting a load of loudmouth urbanites to break the spell? I hereby apologise in advance, then, for letting one of Bath’s best kept secrets out of the bag. I cannot, however, allow myself any sense of regret for shining a spotlight on Jackson Hacker, the up-and-coming young chef currently embarking on a semi pop-up venture from the Richmond kitchen.

While this is the first time Jackson has taken to the hob helm independently, it’s likely that many of us have already nibbled away at his skills before, as he’s already added stints at kitchens including the Marlborough Tavern, Gascoyne Place and Michelin-starred Casamia to his CV. It’s clear from the experience he offers at the Richmond, however, that Jackson – in keeping with the overall vibe of the pub itself – is unlikely to find satisfaction in an ensemble chorus. On one hand, the guy is a traditionalist: local, ethical sourcing is at the top of his agenda, his brother Charlie (of Charlie’s Bakery) supplies all the bread and there’s little fanfare to be found on the neat, clean-cut menu. But a distinctly contemporary undertow makes that ostensibly straightforward surface so inviting to dive in to: any chef who vacuum packs all his meat himself before treating every cut to a sous vide dip isn’t going to boil his carrots to the point of sludge, is he? Similarly, it takes a great deal of confidence to present diners with a two starters/four mains/two dessert menu configuration; to a food critic all-too-wearied by 17 options for an accompaniment to pre-dinner drinks, Jackson’s ‘less is more’ approach is an absolute joy to behold.

To start, I bagsied the goats’ cheese beignets accompanied by beetroot in several incarnations, leaving Him with no option other than to sample the boldly pink, perfectly tender slow-cooked pigeon breast thoughtfully teamed with artfully presented co-hosts including nice fatty lardons. Mains, meanwhile, offered similarly straightforward options. Being neither in the mood for South Coast plaice nor the veggie option (in this instance, a very promising polenta dish), I grabbed the poached, pan-fried chicken, leaving the Hereford rib-eye steak for him. Oh, joy of joys! Chicken that tasted like chicken used to taste before the ‘cheap eats’ brigade downgraded it to bland, tasteless, workaday protein; steak that tasted of real beef and melted both to the tine and on the tongue. My dish arrived bolstered by curly kale, pan-fried diced potatoes and a smooth Jerusalem artichoke veloute, while the properly chunky, thrice-fried (I’m guessing?) chips, lightly-dressed rocket and creamy garlic butter that came with his steak could not have been a better match. Even taking into consideration our over-indulgence on the desserts front (we shared an elegant trio of English pear and a super-rich chocolate mousse with hazelnut praline between us), portions weren’t so overwhelming that we left feeling over-stuffed; instead, we were properly, perfectly satiated by a chef who understands the importance of fresh, memorable flavours over the bombardment that too much food/ too many ingredients can offer.

For food alone, the cost of a three-course, two-diner taste of Hacker comes in at less than £50, which we upped by around £14 to include a really good bottle of wine. Take the trip up the hill into ‘hidden Bath’ on a Thursday evening, however, and Steak Night brings Hereford sirloin to the menu for just £10. Jackson Hacker: he’s one to watch, for sure.

THE RICHMOND 7 RICHMOND PLACE, BATH, BA1 5PZ, TEL: 01225 316725, WEB: WWW.JACKSONHACKER.COM

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