FOOD&DRINK

Olde English treats at this Totterdown pub

When I lived nearby it was the Cumberland and, like many BS3 locals, defiantly dodgy. Reborn as gastropub the Star & Dove in 2008, it’s had a chequered story, closing in January this year, and now open again with good real ales and an excellent wine list. More importantly, with three chefs now running things, the food is back on… and what food it be! Here’s your chance to ‘go for an English’ with a vengeance, whether it’s ‘beer food’ (bar snacks) or the ‘old kitchen’ menu of historic recipes, some dating back to the 17th century. It’s an approach favoured by Heston Blumenthal with his Dinner place in London and, judging by the meal we had, deserves to be a great success in Bristol.

We arrived around 8pm on a Friday – possibly not the best time to dine in what’s clearly a very popular local pub, but a good test of the service – and started in on a bottle of Strawberry Hill red wine. They had foreign bottles, too, but we were determined to go with the English thing, and the light, energetic flavour was pleasingly complex. We baggsed some ‘beer food’ for starters, with a half-pint of pig crackling, rollmops and bread, all made in house and all delicious distractions from our perusal of the ‘old kitchen’ menu. The faded parchment and gothic script seemed a bit over the top but then we saw our neighbour’s portion of baked mackerel arrive, stiffened tails sticking up out of a pewter tankard, and it all seemed of a piece. The nine dishes were all ‘dated’ and priced between £7 and £10, and after some helpful explanations of ancient terminology we were ready to roll.

My companion went straight for River Exe mussels, meat prawns, gravy and ‘sippetts of toasted bread’ and got a heap of tasty shellfish in thick meaty broth scattered with rough croutons. The powerful flavours lifted it way above expectations and received unreserved approval. I had broiled baby fowl with pate and English greens – another perfect combination, the creamy pate enriching the stew of vegetables and the tiny bird so softly cooked that even the bones melted in the mouth.

Rich puddings followed – lashings of treacle and a punchy syllabub standing out – and then a bill of around £40 for the lot… another throwback, and very welcome, too. The place was heaving but the service was impeccable and the food a real experience – I’ll certainly be going back as soon as I can. (Tony Benjamin)

CONTACT

The Star & Dove 75 St Lukes Rd, Totterdown, Bristol. Ffi: 0117 933 2892, http://www.staranddove.co.uk/

Verdict ‘Going for an English’ has never been so satisfying

Copyright Tony Benjamin 2011