FOOD&DRINK

‘Time Team’ fans will love Cam’s Railway Inn. The train track which ran nearby has been gone 40 years, but enough evidence remains, backed up by photographs, press cuttings, maps and landlord John Sweet’s memories dating back over half a century, to piece together a fascinating understanding of bygone life in this Cotswold village.

The building became a pub in 1857, although a beam hook hints at an earlier slaughterhouse incarnation. Diners today enjoy Frocester Fayre steaks hung for three weeks, and even the Farm Assurance ham is hung for seven days. Patience is important when preparing food here, and taste and flavour are to the fore in the unhurried eating and drinking. As well as August’s annual cider festival, more than 10 ciders are available year-round, with Railway Sleeper (at 8.4%) unavailable anywhere else.

Should you want some fresh air to clear your head, the spacious garden runs beside the River Cam and features ducks, chickens, and carp and tench in a large pool. Dinky Wallace and Gromit figurines catch the eye almost as much as the award-winning tubs and hanging baskets which bring riotous colour come spring. “I go overboard!” says John. “There were 210 three years ago but I’ll probably do 60 next year.”

Surroundings within are less spectacular, but carpets throughout ensure tots tumbling over won’t come to major grief. Nippers get their own distinctly affordable menu, providing energy aplenty with which to explore nearby Slimbridge, Berkeley Castle or the Cotswold Way. Next September’s hoped-for steam rally should see some big boys’ very big toys return. (Simon Fry; pics Mark Simmons)

The information

Lager Fosters, Carling. £3.15.

Beer Doom Bar, Abbot, 6X. From £2.60.

Cider Stowford Press, Cheddar Valley, Railway Sleeper, Old Rascal, Green Goblin, Black Rat, Thatchers Pear. From £2.55.

Wine Three red, three white. From £2.05 gls/£7.70 btl.

Food Served Tue-Sat lunchtimes (limited selection Sat lunchtime, please call ahead) Fri night steak night. Pub classics. Lamb shank £7.85, scampi £6.85, plaice £5.35, curry/cottage pie/chilli/cauliflower cheese £5.10, ham & two eggs £4.85.

RAILWAY INN STATION RD, CAM, GLOS, GL11 5NS. TEL: 01453 543237, WEB: WWW.RAILWAYATCAM.CO.UK OPEN MON 6.30PM-12.30AM, TUE-THUR 11.30AM-3PM & 6.30PM-12.30AM, FRI 11.30AM-3PM & 6.30PM-1AM, SAT 11.30AM-4PM & 6.30PM-1AM, SUN 12NOON-4.30PM & 6.30PM-12.30AM.

Text copyright Simon Fry 2010; Pics copyright Mark Simmons Photography 2010