FOOD&DRINK

You know you’ve left the city behind at Rickford’s Plume of Feathers: the adjoining stream is the loudest sound you’ll hear and the night’s pitch blackness enhances its great sense of remoteness. Enter to find décor in keeping, with flagstones, fixtures and fires (one of which is real and boasts an ancient, attractive bread oven) taking you back to bygone days.

The food and drink offerings, however, couldn’t be more contemporary, with porter on draught and meaty casserole bubbling away to keep out the cold. The menu changes frequently, so expect lighter dishes in spring and a session beer perfect for toasting success – and drowning sorrows – when the Six Nations is showing.

Landlady Kate Jackson and hubby Dan nurture wonderful family-friendliness. Son Maddock bids the regulars ‘goodnight’ before being carried up to bed (there’s accommodation if you fancy kipping over), while Kate’s sisters’ artistry enhances the walls.

Noted punters include Ted, the owl from the Yeo Valley adverts, and The Stig, a mate of Kate’s. He can leave his crash helmet behind, however: the only speediness here is on July’s charity duck race day. (Words Simon Fry, pics Mark Simmons)

The information

Lager San Miguel, Carlsberg. From £2.90.

Beer Butcombe, Cheddar Ale, Potholer plus guest. From £2.80.

Cider Thatchers traditional, Ashton Press, Thatchers Dry, Bee Sting. From £2.60.

Wine Red: one by glass, three by bottle; white: three by glass, one by bottle. From £3.05 gls/£12.60 btl.

Food Served daily 12noon-2.30pm & 6-9.30pm. Homemade, seasonal, using quality produce. Beef & Butcombe casserole with herb and mustard dumplings £8.95, homemade burger £7.95, fisherman’s pie £9.50, homemade chicken kievs £10.50, pizzas: charcuterie £8.55, le hot stuff £6.75.

PLUME OF FEATHERS RICKFORD, NR BURRINGTON, NORTH SOMERSET, BS40 7AH, TEL: 01761 462682, WEB: WWW.THEPLUMEOFFEATHERS.COM OPEN DAILY 12NOON-11PM.

Copyright Simon Fry 2011; pics Mark Simmons 2011)