FOOD&DRINK

When the Lord Mayor of Bristol praises you on a job well done, you know you’re getting things right, but Bristol’s first citizen is only one of many to have commended landlord Jon Evans on his transformation of Totterdown’s Oxford.

Originally from Salford, Jon had seen the Oxford decline during his 20 years in the area, and so he jumped when the chance came to take ownership and restore its former glories in July last year.

His is a characterful corner pub at the heart of its community. The Victorian-style lamp on its front terrace confirms its old boozer credentials. Enter to find a handsome u-shaped wooden bar, pool table, fussball, dartboard and a carpeted side room (complete with eye-catching telephone booth) leading on to a rear beer patio. Eight artists’ work adorns the walls, with children’s books and toys keeping the nippers (allowed here until 9pm) occupied. Things are kept in the family here, with Jon’s daughters Zoe, Eloise and Ebony busy behind the bar.

The pub’s calendar is just as busy. Monday and Tuesday are men’s and ladies’ darts nights, there’s pool on Wednesday, a renowned Thursday open mic and an Irish music gathering – complete with harp – on the last Sunday of the month. Soul nights are set to arrive, while live music offerings include the enduringly popular Rita Lynch (who has her own mural!) on 24 September. The Totterdown Arts Trail blazes – like the real fire come November.

After a year at the helm Jon is close to having the place as he wants it. When the hearty dining starts leaving his kitchen – he cooked in St Austell beside a chef who worked with Keith Floyd – he’ll be closer still.

The Oxford, then, is one of a kind: the Lord Mayor might rate it but this isn’t a chain at all.

(Simon Fry; pics Mark Simmons)

The information

Lager Staropramen, Peroni, Kronenbourg, Stella, Fosters. From £3.20.

Beer Doom Bar, Tribute plus monthly changing guest. From £2.80.

Cider Stowford Press, Blackthorn. From £3.00. Plus bottles.

Wine Up to five white, two red. From £2.70 gls/£9 btl.

Food Served (by end of September) daily 12noon-9pm. Quality, hearty, homemade. Expect dishes like burgers, fish pie for around £6.95.

THE OXFORD 120 OXFORD ST, TOTTERDOWN, BRISTOL, BS3 4RL. TEL: 07500 830150. FACEBOOK PAGE. OPEN DAILY 12NOON-11PM.

Pics copyright Mark Simmons Text copyright Simon Fry 2010