Anyone bemoaning the absence of pubs as they used to be should visit the Merchants Arms where, but for the smoke-free air, you’ll find a scene you’d have found decades ago. Conversation is king and the pint glass prince in a boozer where “a judge sits next to a scaffolder and they find common ground,” according to landlord John Lansdall. Almost everyone drinks beer (albeit in halves for several of the distaff side) and the only concessions to dining are the – admittedly very tempting – pies, pork scratchings, rolls and pickled eggs placed teasingly behind the bar.

CAMRA have rightly recognised the décor for its bygone beauty, with wooden floors and panelling, subdued lighting and black-and-white photographs creating a cosy, inclusive space where, in the front room at least, all are fair game for joining in the banter. Time seems to have stopped; it’s actually going backwards if the clock is to be believed.

Regulars travel from Kingswood, Nailsea and Portishead for their fix of ale and atmosphere, and a varied social programme brings all together. Weekly quizzes tax brains, the culture vultures recently sampled an English National Baroque concert, the Bristol Brass Ensemble performs quarterly while the MCC – Merchants Cricket Club – celebrates the summer game. If you’re after a top time, the Merchants is a banker. (Words Simon Fry; pics Mark Simmons)

The information

Lager Amstel, Budvar. From £3.30.

Beer Gem, Barnstormer, Spa & guest (currently Festivity.) From £2.70.

Cider Bounders. £3.10.

Wine Two red, two white. From: £3.30 gls/£13.50 btl.

Food Served as open. Bar snacks. Split Tin Bakery pies £2.70, rolls £2.50, pork pies £1.50.

MERCHANTS ARMS 5 MERCHANTS RD, HOTWELLS, BRISTOL, BS8 4PZ, TEL: 0117 904 0037, WEB: WWW.BATHALES.COM OPEN MON-THUR 4-11PM, FRI-SAT 12NOON-11PM, SUN 12NOON-10.30PM.
 

Copyright Simon Fry 2011; pics copyright Mark Simmons Photography 2011

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