Like its sister pub, Horfield’s Royal Oak, the Cross Hands represents all that is good in the modern boozer. High-ceilinged throughout, its various areas provide plenty for everyone. Diners get classy options from bar snacks to mains – even the cheeseboard is a thing of wonder. Drinkers enjoy numerous ale varieties, 16 rums and the uber rare Stella Black; nippers have shelves full of books and toys plus a Wendy house in the astro-turfed rear. Those minding the pennies cop for admirable offers. In spacious and light surroundings, fat leather sofas are made for unwinding, groups can chow down at the long tables, while what is arguably Venueland’s most stylish function room has already staged 18th and 60th birthdays plus two post-funeral gatherings, with film nights, comedy, quizzes and speed dating to come. Summer’s sun will warm gardens fore and aft on balmy days.

The forethought here is amazing: every demographic manages to somehow get top billing, the pleasing end result worthy of great praise. Cross hands? Clap hands, more like. (Simon Fry; pics Mark Simmons)

The information

Lager Becks, Staropramen, Peroni, Stella Black. From £3.35.

Beer Gem, Doom Bar, Butcombe Gold, Otter, Timothy Taylor Landlord. From £3.05.

Cider Stowford Press, Thatchers Gold, Aspalls Cloudy, Thatchers Heritage. From £3.05.

Wine Five red, five white. From: £3.70 gls/£13.50 btl.

Food Served Mon-Sat 12noon-3pm & 6-10pm, Sun 12noon-4pm. Modern British. Homemade Scotch egg with piccalilli £3.50, fish finger sandwich (starter) £6.50, venison & claret cottage pie £11, beer-battered haddock & chips £10.50, goats cheese & thyme-infused tart with waldorf salad £9.50.

Offers Tue pie & pint £9.50, Thud two steaks & bottle of wine £25.

CROSS HANDS 1 STAPLE HILL, FISHPONDS, BRISTOL, BS16 5AA. TEL: 0117 965 7759, WEB: WWW.THECROSSHANDSBRISTOL.CO.UK OPEN DAILY 11AM-12MIDNIGHT.

Copyright Simon Fry 2011; pics copyright Mark Simmons Photography 2011