Proper pub grub and contempo-classics at this bar for all seasons

Those lazy, hazy days of a British summertime - all two weeks of them - are pretty much over for another year. But one of the many reasons to be cheerful as the season of mists and mellow fruitfulness starts to sneak in on the breeze has to be that we no longer need to force ourselves to endure the endless wait for a table on an alfresco terrace, only to end up wedged in between a fractious family and a gaggle of orange-skinned prosecco guzzlers braying about a forthcoming wedding.

Cosy corners and comfort food are set to come into their own again, and although I’ve whiled away many a happy hour this past summer supping and puffing on the heated, covered alfresco terrace attached to the multi-faceted pleasure dome that is the Cork, I can’t say I’m sorry to have a reason to venture indoors again. For indoors at the Cork is pretty cosy, too, combining a traditional lounging area with contemporary urban necessities such as a chic little lower-level bar (the Vaults) and all manner of events on the entertainment calendar.

As soon as the sun set on a dreary midweek evening in Bath, Best Friend and I were instantly cheered as we took to a table in the Cork’s snug little dining area beyond the main bar and swooped on a bar platter to share (£15), of which a tower of salmon & horseradish fishcakes, a tumble of falafels and a positively sexy sun-blushed tomato, basil & feta cheese salad proved to be indisputable highlights. In truth, the platter would have constituted a hearty standalone supper in itself, but a feta cheese, spinach & red onion frittata (£8.45) and a boisterous sweet chilli & mozzarella beefburger (£8.45) had already called to us from beyond the realms of starters, so on we ploughed, through textbook renditions of freshly cooked contempo-classics, neither dish falling foul to crimes of overcooking, and the chips accompanying the burger as good as the genre gets, resulting in a feast of proper pub grub that doesn’t pertain to hit the G-spot but tastefully fills you up without blowing the bank. Step inside, love - comfort is back on the menu. (Melissa Blease)

CONTACT

THE CORK 11-12 WESTGATE BUILDINGS, BATH. FFI: 01225 333582, http://www.thecork.co.uk/

THE VERDICT Competent renditions of well-sourced, seasonal grub at comforting prices

Copyright Melissa Blease 2011