FOOD&DRINK

Despite being open barely a month, the Bank of Stokes Croft feels like it’s always been part of Bristol’s newly fashionable area. This latest offering from city scene stalwarts Dave Smeaton and James Savage (of Big Chill, The Park and Spotted Cow fame) gives them a presence north of the centre, filling a void created by the closure of Gloucester Road’s much-missed North.

Its minimalist, warehouse-style décor echoes that of a still-more-northern bar, Manchester’s Dry. Although a long-time Bristol resident, Dave retains his Mancunian accent and smiles at the valid comparison, Dave being Bristol’s answer to Tony Wilson. A massive Motorboy artwork adorns one wall and is, according to Dave, “a representation of house music”, although assistant manager Jes Rowlands stresses the venue’s embracing of other musical forms, with Sunday open mic evenings promising mellowness.

Food is central to proceedings. Wilfully flavoursome pizzas combine style and substance while Jes speaks rapturously of the horseradish dumplings accompanying the beef and Bath Ale stew. The bar itself is a metaphorical melting pot. Artists are invited to display their work and, says Jes, “We’re all from creative backgrounds. Dave and James usually say ‘yes’ to something!” The punters are as diverse, with music legends and coffee-drinkers by day, and label-conscious freshers sitting beside couples in their 60s during my candlelit visit. The extraordinarily funky snug – once a bank vault: check the massive door – is perfect for groups while smokers get a chic rear garden for their ciggies. The pleasing whole confirms that, despite the recession, Smeaton and Savage can still draw a crowd. Safe as – if only the world’s bankers were as reliable. (Words Simon Fry; Pics Mark Simmons)

The information
Lager Estrella, Red Stripe, Becks Vier. From £3.10.

Beer Bath Ales’ Gem & Spa. £3.10.

Cider Thatchers Gold £3.

Wine Five red, four white. From £3.30 gls/£11.50 btl.

Food Served until 10pm daily. Rustic – pizzas, bowls and sides plus weekend brunch. Roast new potatoes £2.50, frizzee salad £3, Goan fish curry £5, beef and Bath Ale stew £5, 10 pizza varieties, all £5 include cured ham, olives & shaved parmesan as well as Portobello mushroom, courgette, aubergine & caramelised red onion.

BANK OF STOKES CROFT 84 STOKES CROFT, BRISTOL, BS1 3QY. TEL: 0117 923 2565, WEB: WWW.THEBANKOFSTOKESCROFT.COM OPEN SUN-WED 11-1AM, THUR 11-2AM, FRI-SAT 11-4AM.

Text copyright Simon Fry 2010; pics copyright Mark Simmons Photography 2010