FOOD&DRINK

Value-for-money is the watchword at the Albion, a rustic, rural boozer bringing the Shires to BS8. Solid, practical furniture, a resident chocolate labrador called Aero and a daily-changing menu regularly featuring game confirm its country credentials, with eye-catching fresh flowers evincing its female friendliness. Its reputation for excellence is well-deserved, but owner/congenial host Owain George is keen to stress his place’s inclusiveness. “We’re a public house – a house for the public,” he says.

All Clifton Village gravitates to where Owain holds court, the great and the good gathering gregariously for cider festivals, street parties, quizzes and carol singing. Drop in – you might find the Albion surprisingly affordable: a bowl of fresh soup with bread made and baked on site that morning is yours for £4. Two departing punters were recently heard to remark approvingly, “You get what you pay for.”

I savour Michelin Guide-approved dining, which draws admiring glances from onlookers and culminates in a tarte tatin that’s worthy of topping any things-to-do-in-Bristol-before-you-die list. Sparkling waitresses Natalie and Susie uphold the Albion’s high service standards throughout my feast. In these belt-tightening times, the portions here will have you loosening yours. (Simon Fry, pics: Mark Simmons)

The information

Lager Becks, Stella 4. From £3.90.

Beer Gem, Butcombe, HPA Wye Valley. From £3.40.

Cider Cheddar Valley, Stowford Press. From £3.20.

Wine House: four red, four white, two rosé plus 20 by bottle. Red from £2.90 gls/£16 btl, white £2.80gls/£16 btl.

Food Daily dinner 7-9.30pm; Tue-Sun brunch 11am-3pm, lunch 12noon-3pm; Tue-Fri bar menu 3-10pm. “Mrs Beeton”. Dishes change daily, examples: beef, onion & mushroom pie £12.50, Cornish cod £14.50, whole roast Devon chicken £15.50, rump steak £17.50.

ALBION BOYCES AVE, CLIFTON, BRISTOL, BS8 4AA. TEL: 0117 973 3522. WEB: WWW.THEALBIONCLIFTON.CO.UK OPEN MON 5PM-12MIDNIGHT, TUE-SUN 11AM-12MIDNIGHT.

Copyright Simon Fry 2010; pics Mark Simmons Photography 2010