Sometimes having a stalker can be a good thing. Tony Benjamin takes a butcher’s at some wild food.

Increasingly, those of us who eat the stuff are showing a concern for the life of the animals reared for the meat market. Sales of free-range, outdoor-bred and organic produce have increased steadily over the last decade and butcher Joe Wheatcroft thinks that this is best reflected in a growing market for game. “It’s beautiful meat, full of flavour, and you know it’s had a free life. With the exception of pheasants, who get specially reared and nurtured, game is completely free-range and natural.” When Venue visited Joe at his meat counter in Bristol’s Source Food Hall, there was pheasant, partridge, mallard and venison on display, but the shop also trades in rabbit, hare, teal, widgeon and woodcock.

Joe reckons it’s venison that’s the most popular at present, and he’s waiting on a delivery from Exmoor, due later that day. “At the moment it’s male red deer, and we have three stalkers on Exmoor who keep us supplied. Today it’s Len Stevens that’s coming. He’s licensed and he has a larder on the moors.” The deer will have been stalked by Len with a hunter who will have paid for the privilege. They will have found a deer of the right size and age and stalked it until it was in a good position for a clean shot. The body will then have been taken back to the larder, gutted and hung up for seven days before being skinned and delivered to the butcher for final preparation.

The best cuts of top-quality venison are among the most expensive of meats – venison loin can go for over £35 a kilo – but game doesn’t have to be so costly. Joe recommends trying pheasant breasts at £1.50 each. “They’re really succulent wrapped in bacon and baked in the oven, or just fried in a bit of butter. All you need is cabbage and mash – beautiful!” You could also stretch them further in a casserole with veg and herbs (Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall has a nice recipe on the web).

As with fish, however, you do need to be sure your suppliers are concerned for the sustainability of the stocks. Joe reckons this has become very well managed within the licensed suppliers, though he’s aware there are still poachers operating for most game animals. “There’s no sustainability issues if you use the right producers. We saw this with grouse: last year was a bad year for the bird and very little was sold. The population was allowed to build up and so this year there’s been plenty. It’s all about the management and people know what they’re doing.”

So – properly sourced, game is sustainable, seasonal, free-range and as organic as the countryside it grew up in. More to the point it’s a delicious reminder of how tasty meat can be, offering a range of flavours from delicately fish-hinting duck breast to the darkly rich claret of venison steaks. If you haven’t yet tried it, maybe it’s time you joined in the game yourself?

All in the game

Look for game at the places below – but bear in mind the season and availability means that supplies cannot be guaranteed. You should also check your local farmers’ market (see food diary on p.33 for details) for other suppliers visiting the area.

Source Food Hall 1-3 Exchange Ave, St Nicholas Market, Bristol, BS1 1JW. Tel: 0117 927 2998, web: www.source-food.co.uk

Sheepdrove Organic Farm Family Butcher 3 Lower Redland Rd, Bristol, BS6 6TB. Tel: 0117 973 4643, web: www.sheepdrive.co.uk

M.J. Dalton Butchers 409 Gloucester Rd, Horfield, Bristol, BS7 8TS. Tel: 0117 924 3366.

The Real Meat Company 7 Hayes Pl, Bear Flat, Bath, BA2 4QW. Tel: 01225 335139, web: www.realmeat.co.uk

Bartlett & Son 10-11 Green St, Bath, BA1 2JZ. Tel: 01225 466731, web: www.bartlettandsons.co.uk

Larkhall Butchers 1 Lambridge Buildings, Larkhall, Bath, BA1 6RS. Tel: 01225 313987.
 

Copyright Tony Benjamin 2010

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