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The wow factor

Mike White makes it an anniversary to remember at Thornbury Castle.

“Oh, wow!” Sadie gasps. As we swing round the driveway, through an ancient stone archway and into the courtyard, my choice of anniversary-celebrating destination has clearly come up trumps. A romantic mix of late medieval castle and 19th-century mansion house, Thornbury Castle is a very special hotel indeed. It’s a place for those one-off occasions – marriage proposals, honeymoons, anniversaries – when you really want the wow factor.

A manor house stood on the site from Saxon times, and conversion into a castle was begun by Edward, third Duke of Buckingham in 1511. Unfortunately, Edward lost his head at Tower Hill on trumped-up treason charges, and the castle was never finished. Various royals – including Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn – enjoyed it for the magnificent country home it was, but when Mary I gave the property back to the headless Duke’s son, he could no longer afford the upkeep and the castle lapsed into picturesque ruin. It was not until the 1850s that Thornbury Castle once again became a family residence. That homely warmth remains, though there’s plenty of historic drama, too – crenellations and arrow-slits, a suit of armour standing guard in reception. Before dinner, we explore the grounds: the earliest Tudor garden in England, great shoulders of yew hedge, ancient stone walls looming on all sides. Rooks chatter in the treetops as the sun sets. Panelled halls lead to the drawing room – log fire aglow – and into the library, where whispering ladies are taking tea.

Our bedchamber’s across the courtyard, all mullioned windows, cannon-proof walls, four-poster bed. There’s a decanter of complimentary sherry on the writing desk – a nice touch. The second ‘wow’ of the evening is the vast bathroom. Claw-foot tub, giant brass rain-shower, proper Thomas Crapper throne inscribed ‘The Venerable’.

Dinner is a real occasion here. We’re presented with a platter of canapés – tiny bites of wonder, every one – in the drawing room beforehand, then escorted through to the hexagonal Tower Dining Room: dark panelled walls, arrow slits, candle light. The menu is inventive, combining seasonal ingredients with rare flair. Particular highlights include an apple and celeriac soup with truffle oil; a starter of pumpkin ravioli with Bosworth Ash goats’ cheese; diver-caught scallop baked in the shell. Across six or so courses, chef Mark Veales brings near perfection – the collection of aged English beef disintegrates beautifully; a roast breast of Gressingham duck plays off magnificently against braised chicory. The puddings merit a page of praise on their own. My Granny Smith parfait is a little apple-shaped thing with blackberry purée, honeycomb and local cider sorbet; her chocolate orange fondant is dark and decadent, sharpened by orange compote.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, we’re not all that hungry come breakfast-time, though I manfully tackle Gloucester Old Spot sausages, farm cut bacon and eggs (local, organic and free-range, of course). We take one last longing look at our room – the huge four-poster now more inviting than ever – and pack our bags. A wonderful taster though it was, one night can never be enough in a place as good as this. Next time we need the wow factor, we’ll be back.

THORNBURY CASTLE THORNBURY, SOUTH GLOS, BS35 1HH, TEL: 01454 281182, WEB: WWW.THORNBURYCASTLE.CO.UK ROOMS FROM £190 FOR BED AND BREAKFAST. BOOKINGS ARE OPEN NOW FOR SPECIAL CHRISTMAS BREAKS AND THE NEW YEAR ‘BANQUET AND SLEEP’ OFFER, FROM £245 PER PERSON.

Romantic hideaways

Fiona Morrison suggests three of the West’s cosiest retreats

THE LIMES

Sea air, tranquillity and cosiness at this cottagey Victorian B&B and smallholding, with roaring log-burner, big garden and the seafront a bracing two-mile stroll away.

Sleeps Two per room.

Price £40-£75 per night.

THE LIMES KEN MOOR RD, KENN, CLEVEDON, BS21 6UB, TEL: 01275 342235, WEB: WWW.LIMESBB.CO.UK

ASPHODEL COTTAGE

Dating back to 1624, thatch-roofed Asphodel Cottage dozes in the Cotswold hamlet of Tarlton. It has been lovingly restored – all exposed beams and chic furnishings – and though it might be too bijou for Cameron Diaz (as seen in recent romcom ‘The Holiday’), it has the perfect snuggle factor, with a walled garden for added romance.

Sleeps Two

Price £525-£750 per week. Short breaks available.

ASPHODEL COTTAGE 49 TARLTON, GLOS, GL7 6PA, TEL: 07951 681571, WEB: WWW.ASPHODELCOTTAGE.COM

COMBE THATCH COTTAGE

Surrounded by a private walled garden, Combe Thatch Cottage sits in a little wood in the estate of Combe Country House, a grand Elizabethan manor hotel. Expect high-end luxury in a secluded setting – for a special treat, the Combe House chef will dish up a romantic candlelit dinner just for you in the cottage.

Sleeps Two

Price From £399 per night (inc breakfast).

COMBE HOUSE HOTEL GITTISHAM, HONITON, DEVON, EX14 3AD, TEL: 01404 540400, WEB: WWW.COMBEHOUSEDEVON.COM

Copyright Mike White 2011

 

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